Climate Change: Arctic Melting / Methane Runaway

[Rick Masters]

Peter Wadhams' views on the latest IPCC SR 1.5 Report


IPPC SR 1.5 Report
http://www.ipcc.ch/report/sr15/

Paul Beckwith on Abrupt Climate Change threatening our extinction


Guy McPherson Final Climate Change update
https://guymcpherson.com/climate-chaos/climate-change-summary-and-update/

Rick Masters: Man Shall Follow (1986)
https://soundcloud.com/rick-masters/man-shall-follow

[Rick Masters]

Guy McPhersen: Near Term Extinction


Map
https://arxiv.org/pdf/1010.0428v3.pdf

I had the great privelage of witnessing Krishamurti speak in Ojai, California, in 1970.
https://www.jkrishnamurti.org/jksearch?content_type=16615

[Bill Cummings]

What causes ice ages:
https://youtu.be/iA788usYNWA

[Craig Muhonen]

A crawlspace perspective of building practices and climate change


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My Journeyman's experience, over 40 years of Plumbing, has taken me into the smallest and biggest building projects in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, and for the most part I've found that general contractors pay absolutely no attention to the Earth that they are building on, or the "massive" Southern sun.
The "curb appeal" is most important to them, not the mechanical aspects of a passive home.
Individually we can not do anything about the changing climate, which means globally, but we can control the climate in our homes and buildings, and even to a certain extent our piece of property that we have embarked on turning into a home.
"The climate" under your home never changes and can be put to big advantage,
but few do, and then they give me a shitty two and a half foot crawlspace, and a "closet" to put my mechanical in... ha..
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Passive,
Your foundation and slab, is a "lifetime" battery for the house if it's built right,
the more mass it has and deeper it is, the more 55 degree energy it can absorb and keep, and then the small mechanical energy you can put into the floors is icing on the cake.

Making sure that your contractors firmly attach your new house to the 55 degree planet earth , which doesn't change, and making sure that they use the south facing wall, to take Full advantage of heat gain in the winter and shading in the summer.
Water conservation and collecting is key, drainage is key,

a well insulated and water proofed foundation is key, washed gravel backfill and "French drains are key,
I believe having "radiant" floors, gives any home, "a comfort zone" for the life of the house,
and informed, happy occupants.
A good passive building and site, will save 75% on utility bills and sometimes more depending,
and be "active" solar ready.
I had envisioned a company of, 1 plumber, 1 electrician, and 1 concrete guy, to be the "site contractor" to build these types of "starter kit" homes, ready for the owner builder to finish at his leisure, in any way they wanted to. We even had plans to pre build
4 of these on our lots, and include them in the price of the lot, butt..
A bad construction accident knocked/pounded me out of the loop, so that was that, but here is the basic design you guys can share with others
who may be "thinking cap" builders.

These designs are turn key "site built" passive solar structures, with everything underground and the landscaping up and running. The garage feature gives a place for the family to use, and be there throughout, and they can see in advance, where the sun (and the moon) traverse the lot, that way you can give your contractor the design YOU have made, and then handed over to the finish.

geosun 12.png (31.62 KiB) Viewed 890 times

Geo Sun Foundation #12.png (36.91 KiB) Viewed 890 times

air conditioned south facing.png (104.13 KiB) Viewed 890 times

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If you invest 80% in a passive building, then 20% to finish, your utility bills and labor costs will be much lower.
If you go active solar you can cut them to the bone, and get sizable tax credits to boot.
If you go for rain water collection and storage, that's part of conservation.
In general the banks and contractors take 20% up front and then pay it off in increments,
but that's 80% for a long time.

I have been installing "in-floor" heating since 1977 and found it to be, by far, the most effective way to heat a home, and also have happy customers, they don't see the heat or feel the heat, but it's always there.
In an electric outage the floors/slab, have 30 hours of residual heat in them just radiating, when every body else is freezing up and scrambling. A small generator will keep your pump running, and there is no electrical on the water heater. simple stuff.
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Here is a relatively simple way it can be done for a 1,500 sq. foot, "foot print". The garage and solar greenhouse are an option.

Create a 4 inch, well insulated slab system and floor drains to daylight, that is 30' x 50', with half inch Pex-H tubing on 9" centers installed.
Get a 50 gallon propane water heater and hook the tubing manifold to the water heater,
cold/return in, hot out. Install a 007-10 circulator/pump, on either the output or input.
Manifold a 3/4" Copper inlet and outlet to the heater, hooked up to the different loops or zones of tubing. Each room can have it's own loop if you want, or just the whole 1,500' floor(s) heated evenly at once on a manual timer. Zone thermostats need to be in the correct position. important.
Hook a timer to the pump with a relay.
Fill the tank and piping slowly letting air out the top, and pressurize it to 20-30 lbs.
Now fire up the water heater and heat 50 gallons to 130.
When you turn on the circulator it will purge all air out, and just circulate hot water.
In freezing conditions, glychol is added to the water down to minus 5.
The amount of time to get the slab temp to 70 degrees is let's say, 30 hours, your 4" slab will feel warm, no mater what the outside temps are. Turn the pump off and 30 hours later it's back to the start.
It has cost a certain amount to "run" the system to 70 degrees. $300 dollars.
then to keep it at 70 degrees, $100 dollars a month in winter. (on propane)
$1,500 a year investment, that's a dollar per sq. foot, per year, with minimum moving parts.

The same thing is done with houses on
( well insulated, well graveled, and maintained. ) crawlspaces, and inch and a half poured floors with sleepers, above up to 3 stories.

Now all you gotta do is build a house over this thing, and have the radiant floors on thru out the cold months.
I can't tell you how much money was saved by getting the radiant heating systems working, first not last, and the other trades loved us for getting the electric on, the warm slab and floors, AND the porcelain toilet.. ha.
The same system can be used in hot climates using a "chiller" instead of a heater.
The Slab don't care, it just radiates with no moving parts, well, 1 heater ($300), 1 pump ($125),1 t-stat and timer ($40),
1 set of tubing ($700), glychol ($300),

Labor to hook it up and test it, (1, 8 hour day). 1 person.

Information to the homeowner on how it works and maintenance, priceless.

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Here is a good video on the use of "geothermal" energy, on a commercial scale, but we've done geothermal, just 6' down with horizontal heat exchanger tubes,
even 55 degrees has heat in it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ss_wHCS1Aw


There are pro's and con's.
I would be available at my e mail, cmuhonen64@centurylink.net



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