[dhmartens]

from shga.com:
short and brief:
Shga and Ushpa have accepted the offer of secret ushawks takeover as long as salary increases are approved and the duration is limited to 365 days. The reason for the quick capituiation is because of Xi Jinping has offerred a bribary for us to support of take over of flying sites in Tawain.
I also have recived a different bribe.
Every member has to decice for them selves.

Xi Jinping specifically offeres us a new hang glider design which will cost billions and revolutionize the industry.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evHjclCtZvk

btw: ten new ceo of ushawks should be provided free ushpa membership and insurance. End.

[JoeF]

Rigging Rings of Soft Line
Furthering notes on rigging rings of soft lines for tiny-pack HG designs:

Have a design of a HG. Name the points on the involved beam frame that are to be stayed by rigging lines. Explore what points are appropriate to be on some rigging ring. Determine the path length of a selected rigging ring; the path is modified by the exact specifications of how the line meets and interfaces with a frame point. Set up a jig for winding the rigging line ring. Wind a rigging ring on the jig and splice the two ends of the line used. Label the rigging ring clearly for placement on the HG frame; have sublabels on a ring indicating clearly what frame point matches the place on a rigging ring; if a ring meets frame points four times, then the riing will have four labelled areas; if stops on the line are needed then install those stops. Do such for all needed rigging rings. Put up the HG frame with rigging rings and any other lines needed. In a notebook note the day's temperature, the rigging ring designs, the frame specifications, the rigging-ring saddles of seating. Note the errors involved in the lengths of lines: too long, too short ... and by how much. Either adjust the rings or make new rings. Try again. How are things? Snug?

In time and use there will be some creep in the rigging lines; study ways to adjust for such creep. Make notes in the HG's logbook about these matters. Note the age of the line used in rigging rings. Note the amount of field use and exposure that occurs for the line. Note how one is storing the rigging lines.


Determine how the rigging rings will be packed and stored. Tests? Replacements? Safety margins? Flight reports? Observatons?

[dhmartens]

We have been compromised the the ccp. I am so sorry for this.
that is how the did it im am so sorry.

[JoeF]

Google's AI called Bard is open for trial; one may be placed on a waiting list to try Bard.
Bard is experimental and immature. Bard can respond with hallucinations or lies and even give wrong and off-topic responses; the advice given by Google is to refrrain from using Bard responses for medical or legal or critical-safety dictums; rather be critical and verify items from other research.

Here is a conversation I had with Bard today:

Help me design a hang glider that can pack down for polite bus travel with the hang glider.

Sure, here are some tips on how to design a hang glider that can pack down for polite bus travel:

Choose a hang glider with a compact wing design. There are many different hang glider designs available, and some are more compact than others. Look for a wing design that is easy to fold and unfold, and that takes up minimal space when packed.
Use a lightweight harness and helmet. The harness and helmet are two of the heaviest pieces of hang gliding equipment, so choosing lightweight options can help to reduce the overall weight of your gear.
Invest in a quality travel bag. A good travel bag will protect your hang glider from damage during transport. Look for a bag that is made from durable materials and that has plenty of padding.
Pack your hang glider carefully. When packing your hang glider, it is important to take care to avoid damaging the wing or the other components. Fold the wing carefully and secure it with straps. Place the harness and helmet in separate compartments of the travel bag.
Be respectful of other passengers. When traveling with a hang glider, it is important to be respectful of other passengers. Be sure to pack your gear away neatly and to avoid taking up too much space on the bus.

Here are some additional tips for polite bus travel with a hang glider:
Arrive at the bus stop early. This will give you plenty of time to pack your hang glider and to find a seat that is big enough for you and your gear.
Be prepared to answer questions from other passengers. Many people are curious about hang gliding, so be prepared to answer questions from other passengers.
Be patient. It may take a little longer to board and disembark the bus with a hang glider. Be patient and courteous to the bus driver and other passengers.
By following these tips, you can help to ensure a pleasant and enjoyable bus trip with your hang glider.

===========================
Bard gave a second draft answering:

Sure, here are some tips on how to design a hang glider that can pack down for polite bus travel:

Choose a lightweight wing. The lighter the wing, the easier it will be to pack and carry.
Use a folding frame. A folding frame will make it easier to store and transport the hang glider.
Pack the wing in a bag. A bag will help to protect the wing from damage and make it easier to carry.
Be aware of the bus's luggage policy. Some buses have restrictions on the size and weight of luggage that can be carried.
Be polite to the bus driver and other passengers. Let them know that you are carrying a hang glider and ask for their help if needed.
Here are some additional tips:

Make sure the wing is dry before packing it.
Use a soft, padded bag to protect the wing from damage.
Label the bag with the word "Hang Glider" so that other passengers know what it is.
Be prepared to pay an additional fee for carrying a hang glider on the bus.
Be patient and understanding if the bus driver needs to take extra time to load or unload your hang glider.
I hope these tips help you design a hang glider that can pack down for polite bus travel.

==============================
Bard gave a third version draft answering:

Sure, I can help you design a hang glider that can pack down for polite bus travel. Here are some things to consider:

Size: The hang glider should be as small as possible when packed down. This will make it easier to store in the bus and to carry around.
Weight: The hang glider should be as lightweight as possible. This will make it easier to carry around and to load onto the bus.
Durability: The hang glider should be durable enough to withstand the rigors of travel. This means that it should be made from strong materials and that it should be well-designed.
Packability: The hang glider should be easy to pack down. This means that it should have a simple design and that it should come with a good carrying case.
Here are some specific design considerations:

The wing should be made from a lightweight, durable material such as ripstop nylon.
The frame should be made from aluminum or carbon fiber.
The harness should be comfortable and adjustable.
The carrying case should be sturdy and water-resistant.
With these considerations in mind, you should be able to design a hang glider that is both functional and polite for bus travel.

Here are some additional tips for packing a hang glider for bus travel:

Make sure that the wing is folded neatly and that the frame is disassembled.
Place the wing and frame in the carrying case.
Secure the carrying case with a strap or belt.
Place the carrying case in a seat or in the luggage compartment of the bus.
By following these tips, you can ensure that your hang glider is packed safely and securely for bus travel.

===================================
I asked Bard to write a poem about tiny-packed hang gliders. Here are the three draft responses created by Bard:

Tiny-packed hang gliders,
Folded into a rucksack,
Ready to take flight
When the wind is just right.

You can carry them anywhere,
To the top of a mountain,
Or to the edge of a cliff,
And let the wind take you away.

You can soar over the trees,
And see the world from a new perspective,
And feel the freedom of flight.

Tiny-packed hang gliders,
They're a dream come true,
For anyone who loves to fly.

=========================

A tiny-packed hang glider,
A dream of flight so small,
It fits into a rucksack,
It fits into a car,
It fits into a soul.

A tiny-packed hang glider,
A dream of wings so free,
It takes you to the mountains,
It takes you to the sea,
It takes you to the sky.

A tiny-packed hang glider,
A dream of freedom so strong,
It takes you to the clouds,
It takes you to the stars,
It takes you to the song.

====================

In a tiny pack, a dream of flight
A bird of freedom, waiting for the night
When the wind is up and the moon is bright
And the stars are out, and the world is still

You can spread your wings and take to the skies
Above the trees and the houses and the skies
Above the world and all its troubles and cares
And feel the freedom of the open air

You can soar and glide and circle and dive
And feel the wind in your hair and the sun on your face
And you can forget about all your troubles and cares
And just enjoy the feeling of flying free

So if you're looking for a way to escape
From the everyday world and all its pace
Then get yourself a tiny-packed hang glider
And take to the skies, and let the wind carry you away

[ARP]

See spreader beam; look at left mid-beam and right mid-beam; do you see out-of-column formation?

Yes.

I think that connecting any spar (under compression) at points other than its two end points risks such an out-of-column condition. In modern gliders, there are typically 5 tubes under compression (2 cross bars, 2 downtubes, 1 kingpost). Each is only connected to anything else at its two end points (except downtubes which are often strengthened against pilot's control forces). That's one of the advantages of the split cross bar - each half is only connected at its end points.

As soon as you connect a spar under compression to a third location, you must ensure that all 3 (or more) connection points will remain colinear. That's very difficult to guarantee in a structure as flexible as a typical hang glider.

Bob on my new build I have single spar wings that have mid connection points. This should prevent buckling or out of column alignment. The spars are full length at this stage but could be at a later stage made in sections. The spars are CF sailboard masts and taper which is an unknown that will present challenges but reduces weight out on wing tips. Testing hopefully soon so will update when I have more to report.

[JoeF]

Exploring telescoping sections on one underway design:
Legend: A,B,C are tube segments that telescope: B fits inside A, C fits inside B. TCF: triangle control frame (initiated historically at least in the first decade of the 1900s, by at least W. Simon, as traced someplace in our forum).

CBABC, CBABC for left and right spreader, spanwise. Notice that A has largest diameter and is in center of a compression affair; thus we get a double-tapered beam for left spreader, and a double-tapered beam for right spreader.
BAB, A for aft keel and fore keel.
C, C for two king posts (with aim for foundation of a High Hat).
A, A for two queen posts (base of TCF will be line, not beam; line could be made comfortable by casing of compressible foam of some choice)
==========================
Take a tally: A: 6. B: 6. C: 6
That is: 18 tube segments. Or six sets of ABC.
==========================
With such tally, one might think of exploring window-washing extendable poles (extension poles) that have telescopic sections; the poles come in aluminum or fiberglass or carbon fiber. Section lengths in offered products may or may not fit HG desires. Specifications of such poles may or may not fit HG desires; shortening some segments of a product might be done, but perhaps a wasting choice. Product clamping may not be desired for HG; options like shear pinning come to mind. The tally has me considering looking for window-washing poles made of three sections: A, B, C. Six of such product might supply the HG design being mulled at the moment for this post. Pole products might not fit needs. And one might not want the handles and end tools that come with window-washing poles. Telescopic sticks, antennas? Option is to obtain the A, B, and C segments from other sources.
==========================
Packing notes on A, B, C. The 18 segments could pack as six unities where ABC telescope to make one unity. Let "O" represent ABC unity. Then packing could be represented in end view format:
OOO
OOO
or as
OOOOOO
=========================================
=========================================
A similar exploration may be done with four levels: ABCD.
That will be a later play.

DXEngineering.jpg (9.19 KiB) Viewed 1097 times

=========================================
or more?

DXEngineering7.jpg (5.95 KiB) Viewed 1096 times

======================================================
======================================================
Raw tubes, window-washing, push sticks, walking sticks, antennas,
I nudged ChatGPT AI for some ideas:

Please list many uses of telescoping poles.

Telescoping poles are versatile tools that can be used for a wide range of purposes. Some of the most common uses of telescoping poles include:

Photography: Telescoping poles can be used to hold cameras and help photographers capture images from unique angles.

Fishing: Telescoping poles are commonly used in fishing to extend the reach of the fishing line and make it easier to cast into hard-to-reach areas.

Cleaning: Telescoping poles can be used to clean hard-to-reach areas, such as high ceilings or gutters.

Painting: Telescoping poles can be used to paint hard-to-reach areas, such as tall walls or ceilings.

Window washing: Telescoping poles can be used to clean windows on upper floors of buildings.

Flagpoles: Telescoping poles can be used to hold flags, making them easy to raise and lower.

Camping: Telescoping poles can be used to support tents and tarps, providing shelter from the elements.

Hiking: Telescoping poles can be used as hiking poles to provide support and stability on rough terrain.

Surveying: Telescoping poles can be used in surveying to help measure distances and heights.

Electrical work: Telescoping poles can be used to reach electrical wires and other components in hard-to-reach areas.

Rescue operations: Telescoping poles can be used to reach people who are stuck in high places or difficult-to-reach areas.

Sports: Telescoping poles can be used as part of athletic equipment, such as for high jump or pole vaulting.

Tree trimming: Telescoping poles can be used to reach high branches when trimming trees.

Construction: Telescoping poles can be used as supports for scaffolding or as part of other construction equipment.

Archaeology: Telescoping poles can be used in archaeology to help excavate artifacts from deep layers of soil.

===========
I nudged the same AI program:

You might add the idea of hang glider spars made of telescoping tube segments.

Yes, that's a great addition! Telescoping poles can also be used in the construction of hang gliders, as they can be used as spars or ribs to provide the necessary structure and rigidity while allowing for easy assembly and disassembly. The ability to collapse the poles makes it easier to transport and store the hang glider when not in use.

Conversing with AI

Joe: How might we get a double-tapered beam by using telescoping tube segments?

AI: It is possible to create a double-tapered beam using telescoping tube segments by using a combination of different tube diameters and lengths. Here's one approach:

Start with two telescoping tubes of different diameters, such as a larger diameter tube and a smaller diameter tube that can fit inside the larger tube.
Cut both tubes to the desired length, making sure that the length of the smaller tube is shorter than the larger tube.
Insert the smaller tube inside the larger tube, leaving a gap at one end of the larger tube.

Joe: If a largest diameter tube is the center of the beam, then stepwise smaller diameter tubes on one end of the center tube, and similar stepwise reduction of diameters on the other end produces a doubly tapered beam

AI: That's a great point! Another way to create a double-tapered beam using telescoping tube segments is to start with a larger diameter tube as the center of the beam and then use progressively smaller diameter tubes on each end, creating a taper on both ends. The steps to create this type of beam are:
Choose a large diameter tube as the center of the beam.
Select a smaller diameter tube and insert it into one end of the large diameter tube, leaving a gap between the two tubes.
Cut the smaller diameter tube to the desired length, making sure that it is shorter than the large diameter tube.
Select an even smaller diameter tube and insert it into the end of the smaller diameter tube, leaving a gap between the two tubes.
Cut the even smaller diameter tube to the desired length, making sure that it is shorter than the previous tube.
Repeat this process with progressively smaller diameter tubes until the desired taper is achieved on both ends of the large diameter center tube.

This method allows for the creation of a doubly tapered beam that can be adjusted in length and taper as needed by simply adjusting the lengths of the telescoping tubes.

____
Joe: The secondary and tertiary tubes need not be shorter than the central tube.

AI: You're absolutely right! The length of the secondary and tertiary tubes used to create a double-tapered beam using telescoping tube segments does not necessarily need to be shorter than the central tube. The length of the tubes can be adjusted as needed to achieve the desired taper and length of the beam.

In fact, it may be desirable to use longer secondary and tertiary tubes in some cases to achieve a more gradual taper or to provide additional rigidity to the beam. The length of the tubes can be adjusted by cutting them to the desired length or by adjusting the overlap between the tubes when they are telescoped together.

Overall, the key factor in creating a double-tapered beam using telescoping tube segments is to select tubes of different diameters and adjust their lengths and overlaps as needed to achieve the desired taper and length of the beam.

______
I further nudged the AI language model:

Joe: What are some methods to prevent difficult sliding of segments of a telescopic pole?

AI: Preventing difficult sliding of segments of a telescopic pole is important to ensure the safe and efficient use of the pole. Here are some methods to prevent difficult sliding of segments:

Lubrication: Applying a lubricant, such as silicone spray or graphite powder, to the surface of the telescoping tubes can help to reduce friction and make it easier to slide the tubes in and out. It's important to use a lubricant that is compatible with the materials of the tubes and to avoid getting the lubricant on other surfaces that may be affected.

Cleaning: Dirt, dust, and debris can accumulate on the surface of the telescoping tubes, making it difficult to slide them in and out. Regularly cleaning the tubes with a mild detergent and water can help to remove any buildup and improve the sliding action.

Adjustment: In some cases, difficult sliding may be caused by misalignment or damage to the telescoping tubes. Adjusting the length of the tubes, realigning them, or replacing any damaged components can help to improve the sliding action.

Tension: The tension or pressure between the telescoping tubes can affect how easily they slide in and out. Adjusting the tension by tightening or loosening any locking mechanisms or adjusting the fit of the tubes can help to improve the sliding action.

Maintenance: Regular maintenance, such as inspecting for damage, cleaning, and lubrication, can help to prevent difficult sliding and prolong the lifespan of the telescopic pole. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for maintenance and use to ensure safe and efficient operation.

[JoeF]

Soft-line rigging notes for tiny-packed HG that use such lines
Disclaimer: Notes are not recommending use of any supplier or retailer.
Store Dyneema line in the cool dry dark.
https://www.premiumropes.com/rope-advice/rope-materials
https://osnf.com/uhmwpe-vs-kevlar
Keep log of purchase, use, and exposure.
Keep samples of a lot purely for testing laster in time.
https://www.premiumropes.com/
Avoid the degradation of lines that come from knots.
https://blog.weighmyrack.com/sling-mate ... -vs-nylon/

[JoeF]

Tony R. asked how I was doing.
Answer:
Hi Tony,
Here: persevering in designing details of tiny-packed hang gliders suitable for polite carry on city public buses.
=========================
Onward:
Spar-matter note:
When using fiberglass or carbon-fiber tubing short segments (telescopic or not) for hang-glider spars, the matter of "protecting the tube segment ends" comes into consideration. Collars, rings, bushings, bonding, cleanliness, alignment, lubrication, sizing, honing, OD control, ID control.

====================
For fun, I asked AI ChatGPT as follows and it gave an interesting answer:

User says:
Spar-matter note:
When using fiberglass or carbon-fiber tubing short segments (telescopic or not) for hang-glider spars, the matter of "protecting the tube segment ends" comes into consideration. Collars, rings, bushings, bonding, cleanliness, alignment, lubrication, sizing, honing, OD control, ID control. Did I miss some essential or important concern?

ChatGPT wrote:
You have covered most of the essential concerns related to protecting the ends of fiberglass or carbon-fiber tubing used for hang-glider spars. However, there are a few additional considerations you may want to keep in mind:

Temperature: Fiberglass and carbon-fiber tubes can be sensitive to high temperatures, so it's important to ensure that the tubes don't get too hot during use or storage. Exposure to high temperatures can cause the tubes to lose strength or even melt.

Vibration: Hang-glider spars are subject to significant vibration during use, which can cause wear and tear on the tube ends. It's important to ensure that the ends are securely protected to prevent them from becoming damaged or worn over time.

Weight: Hang-glider spars need to be lightweight to minimize the overall weight of the glider. The protection used on the ends of the tubes should also be lightweight and not add too much additional weight to the overall structure.

Material compatibility: The materials used for the protection should be compatible with the fiberglass or carbon-fiber tubes to prevent any adverse reactions or damage to the tubes.

Overall, protecting the ends of fiberglass or carbon-fiber tubing used for hang-glider spars is crucial to ensure their longevity and safety during use. By addressing the concerns you mentioned and considering the additional factors mentioned above, you can help ensure that the spars remain in good condition and perform well over time.

[dhmartens]

Fighting my way back from being compromised. It is coming down to the market for doublesided carpet tape.

[JoeF]

China-made tiny-packed hang gliders has not yet started. Maybe Thailand will fill the forecasted gap for tiny-packed hang gliders; but Vietnam might thrust a competitive interest in the matter. Made-in-USA tiny-packed hang gliders also has not yet launched. World competition for interesting tiny-packed hang gliders may grow at a pace surprising even the most astute market watchers.
=========================
=========================
Introducing the "Joe Cup"

JoeCup001ofApril30of2023.jpg (15.29 KiB) Viewed 1050 times

Gap filler, stop-insertion-limiting Joe Cup bushing ....l

The sketch's red represents a washer or ring that avoids wedging into the gap between two telescoping tubes.

The black line represents a sock or sleeve forming a double-wall that in use becomes highly tensed as the macro spar of telescoping tube segments goes into axial compression. The red ring is inside the double-walled sock and may be secured in place by some hand sewing pinching the ring into firm position.

The green is a loose ring or disk that is edged radiused on its lower end that faces the sock; the radius will soften the wearing that may occur at the interface of the loose disk and the lower part of the sock; the inner-going telescopic tube segment of a spar will have its insertion end meet the loose ring or disk and press very hard against that disk or ring as axial compression occurs in the macro spar.
The use of the sleeving Joe Cup is to remain so that a tiny looseness remains so that disassembly of tube segments remains possible without binding. The Joe Cup's sleeving might be Teflonized to aid in such assembly-disassembly effort. The Joe Cup limits the amount of insertion that occurs for the smaller spar-tube-segment.

When using the Joe Cup, note that there need be no holes in the side of the tube segments, no shear pinning, no tube clamps, etc. Joe Cups my have thin or thicker walling to accommodate the sizes of the tube segments being joined in the telescopic macro spar. Note that the sock-like construction of some Joe Cups allow for a very efficient toted packing for the Joe Cups, as they simply collapse into a flattish disk-like form; the Joe Cups may be packed in unused cavities of a pack or even "worm" as part ot the trekking pilot's clothes, as in pockets. If the ring is a bit flexible, then deformation may allow stuffing Joe Cups into the interior of toted tube segments.

Joe-Cup sock material may vary. Perhaps the sock that invaginates and closes may be made of Dyneema fabric. Other materials may be considered. One would want the flight loadings not to stretch the sock very much in order to keep HG specifications as desired. However, a bit of stretch might be useful in handling excessive tension caused from excessive compression in the spar when gusts or other overload events occur.

Note that a Joe Cup could also be like the following: a deep cupping stainless-steel lipped cup. The lip stands for the red in the sketch. The bottom of the stainless-steel cup represents the loose green disk. But such a stainless-steel cup may not tiny-pack as easily as other Joe-Cup designs.

Note: a Joe Cup need not be a full round cup but might be a ribbon-like depth limiting device where only say 30% of the circumference of the spar-tube end circle is faced. This might be explored but may not be as stree-spreading as full Joe Cup designs.

The final mass used in a Joe Cup may vary by choice of involved materials. One might explore any COTS lipped cups, even glass test tubes or beakers, etc. in search of a ready cup for use in a Joe-Cup situation for assembling tube segments to make a HG spar with intent of tiny-packing the spar. Taper or a hard cup is not wanted as the insertive spar segment won't be tapered, most likely. One might explore mods of COTS bottles, but watch out for shearing of the bottom of the device during loading. The upper lip of a Joe Cup prevents the cup from moving out of position; the lower lip inside or the lower full floor of the cup prevents the inside telescoping tube segment from entering further than wanted. Aluminum lipped cups of constant diameters may work, but tests should be run regarding fatigue and shearing.

Lips or flanges to cups are of interest; some shearing forces will occur in the HG use in axial compressed assembled spars.

Some COTS cup/beakers critiqued:
Cole-Parmer® Essentials Griffin Low-Form Stainless Steel Beakers with Easy-Pour Rim is expensive; and the inclined lip would tend to wedge and break the spar's outside telescoping tube. So, such product would not be chosen by me. If given freely and if size satisfies one use, then the lip might be flattened to 90-degrees to stop the wedging. Further, such mod would be a rigid Joe Cup and have tiny-packing challenges.

Lipped glass test tubes may not come in sizes wanted. But if exact fit seems nice, then such might work in some instances of smaller-diameter spars. But glass has its challenges!

Avoiding a Joe Cup made from bonding pieces may not satisfy, as bonds may break. Labor may be high.

Custom machined Joe Cups can get very expensive; the two lips and the precision diameters can run up prices to very high levels.

Thermo-forming lips/flanges on a given thermoplastic pipe or tube might suffice in some HG telescopic-spar uses, but test should be run to prove or disprove integrity for safety. One would want to avoid wedging and shearing for assembled axially compression spar.

Flanged aluminum tube bushing having not a bottom in-going flange would need to be modified to get a bottom in-going flange to form a Joe Cup; or a bonding or welding of a bottom for the the COTS flanged bushing. Depth of a COTS part may not be available. Wall thickness of a COTS part might be too thick.

Inner and outer flanging of polycarbonate sheet or tube might be explored for Joe Cupping ends. Test for wedging and shearing unwanteds.

Using spinning to form top out-going lips and bottom in-going lips on a given aluminum or steel thin-walled pipe might be a source of rigid Joe Cups; however, such rigid cups may not pack as well as non-rigid cups as described above.

Le Minimum Joe Cup might be a loop of webbing grabbing two small segment of sticks, each placed in the turn of the flattened webbing. Hand stitch the central part of webbing. Let the webbing dip in the outside larger spar-tube segment keeping the two grabbed stick parts outside while the inner telescoping spar-tube segment fits into the outer tube pressing the webbing down into a Joe-Cupping position-limiting arrangement. This must be tested for wedging and shearing and wobble as gap-fill is not surround. |==================| sketches the device. End sticks and ==== webbing. Use a closed loop of webbing. Two of these could be used at one station of assemblage. +

Start with flat material. Flange two opposite sides, one flange up, the other down. Roll the flanged flat material to form a split-sided sleeve. Call this a split-sided Joe Cup. The roll stays split for keen adjustment into the gap between two telescoping tube segments. Judicious sizing of the flat material will suffice to fit a given join of two telescopic spar segments. The cross section view of the flanged piece is near a Z with a long vertical part of the Z. The two flanges fulfill the needs of limiting the insertion of smaller telescopic tube in an axially-compressed macro HG spar made of several telescopic tube segments. This must be tested for wedge-slipping of upper flange and opening of lower flange during axial compression of the macro spar. If wedging or loss of flange protection occurs, then the part fails. Test for endurance and fatigue failure. Choice of materials will be key on this approach. DIY from flat allows customizing to needs of gap-fill and diameter matching.

Post-Singularity (AI) design of a Joe Cup for tiny-packed hang gliders might be better than what has been covered so far.

DoubleTaperedTelescopicSpar.jpg (7.33 KiB) Viewed 1048 times

Motivation resulting in Joe Cup comes from wanting to avoid clamps, holes in tube segments, shear-pins, shear-pin holes, cam-expanding devices, threads, and more.