[JoeF]

Nice hacksaw video! Thanks, Bob! Special hacksaw techniques to assure square cutting of tubes of various materials may be part of the TPHG's community's needs. Using cores and tapes during cutting on some tubes may help. Leaving some material for fine filing to final target marks may be helpful. Deburring techniques and tools to fit the tube material could sharpen one's crafting. Bonding precision end rings post cutting is a cousin art. Choosing hacksaw blades to fit the material may make a big difference in results. The tension on the blade could be key. Marking the piece and perhaps using a guiding jig may help things at times. Alternatives to the hacksaw might be considered. Slow down during cutting! Use appropriate lubricants; aim not to damage the material with wrong lubricants. Check tools and inspection tools may be helpful. Go-no-go tool might be considered.
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Nice Hacksaw Video! Thanks, Bob!

Special hacksaw techniques are essential for achieving precise, square cuts, particularly when working with tubes of various materials—a key aspect for those in the TPHG community.

Key Hacksaw Techniques for Square Cutting

• Use of Cores and Tapes: Inserting cores or wrapping the tube with tape before cutting can help maintain shape and prevent deformities, particularly with softer or thinner materials.
  
• Leave Room for Filing: When cutting, it's often best to leave a small margin of material, allowing for fine adjustments with a file to reach the final, precise dimensions.
  
• Deburring After Cutting: After cutting, deburring the edges is critical to ensure a smooth finish. Different materials require different deburring techniques or tools—selecting the right one will improve both the look and function of your work.
  
• Bonding Precision End Rings: If precision end rings need to be added after cutting, this is a delicate process that can be considered a “cousin art” to the hacksaw craft. Alignment and bonding need to be done with precision to ensure perfect fitment and strength.

Choosing the Right Hacksaw Blade and Setup

• Material-Specific Blades: The hacksaw blade selection makes a significant difference. Choose blades that match the hardness and thickness of the material you're cutting. Finer blades work well for metals, while coarser blades are better for soft plastics or wood.
  
• Blade Tension: Ensuring the hacksaw blade has the correct tension is crucial for maintaining straight cuts. A loose blade can wander, while a blade that's too tight may snap.

Marking and Guiding

• Precise Marking: Marking your cut line accurately is the first step to a good result. Using a fine-tip marker or scribe along with measuring tools ensures precision.
  
• Use of a Jig or Guide: When working on critical pieces, using a guide or jig can help ensure a straight, square cut. Jigs hold the tube steady and direct the hacksaw at the correct angle, minimizing the chances of deviation.

Additional Hacksaw Alternatives and Tips

• Consider Slowing Down: Slow, steady cutting often yields better results than rushing through a cut. A controlled pace gives you more accuracy and reduces the chance of damaging the material.
  
• Use Lubricants: When cutting metals or harder plastics, using the appropriate lubricant can extend the life of your blade and improve cutting efficiency. Be sure to choose the right lubricant for your material—using the wrong type can cause damage.
  
• Inspect and Check Tools: After cutting, inspect your work with precision tools. A Go-No-Go gauge or similar measuring tools can verify whether the cut meets the required specifications.

Exploring Alternatives

• Alternatives to Hacksaws: While hacksaws are versatile, it's worth considering alternative cutting methods such as tubing cutters, band saws, or Dremel tools, depending on the material and required precision. Each tool has its strengths for different types of cuts.

By applying these techniques and tips, you can ensure cleaner, more precise cuts, saving time in post-processing and improving the overall quality of your TPHG builds or other tube-based projects.

[JoeF]

User: Do you agree that snugging two tubes adjacent to each other forms an unstable core on which to wrap the sail segments as compared to snugging three tubes adjacent and tangent two by two?

Response:
Yes, I agree that snugging two tubes adjacent to each other would form a less stable core compared to snugging three tubes arranged tangentially.

Here's why:

Two-Tube Configuration: When two tubes are placed adjacent to each other, the structure lacks inherent stability. The two tubes can easily roll or shift in opposite directions, especially when you try to wrap something around them (like the sail segments). The surface area in contact between the two tubes is minimal, and there's no internal support to resist movement.

Three-Tube Configuration: When three tubes are snugged adjacent and tangential (forming a triangular arrangement where each tube touches the other two), this forms a more stable structure. The tubes reinforce each other, and their contact points create a stable shape that resists rolling or shifting. This triangular configuration provides better balance and prevents deformation when wrapping the sail segments.

Conclusion:

Two tubes adjacent: Less stable, prone to rolling and shifting.
Three tubes adjacent and tangent: More stable, creating a balanced and secure core for wrapping.
Thus, the three-tube configuration would indeed be preferable for wrapping the sail segments securely.
==============

User:
There may be eight sail segments to roll on the core of tubes. At the flight site, a clean ground cloth would be helpful. Shake clean a sail segment; lay the segment flat on the ground cloth; attach the beginning edge of the sail segment to the core of tubes. Using hands while on one's knees, roll and smooth the sail segment snuggly onto the core of tubes; then attach the second sail segment edge to the end edge of the first rolled sail segment. Keep the tautness and smoothness going as the second sail segment is rolled on the core; etc. The end edge of the last rolled-on sail segment is to be cinched against unrolling/sliding unrolled. After such cinching of the terminal edge of the final sail segment, place some broad snugging elastic straps onto the roll, perhaps three such bands. Then put the roll into the tote bag.

Your process for rolling the sail segments onto the core of tubes and packing them seems well thought out and detailed. Here’s a summary of the key steps:

Step-by-Step Process for Packing Sail Segments:

1. Prepare the Ground Cloth:
- Lay out a clean ground cloth at the flight site. This ensures the sail segments remain clean and free of debris.

2. Lay Out the First Sail Segment:
- Shake clean the first sail segment to remove any dust or debris.
- Lay it flat on the ground cloth, ensuring it's smooth and free from wrinkles.

3. Attach the First Sail Segment:
- Attach the beginning edge of the first sail segment to the core of tubes (the two or three adjacent and tangent tubes).
- While kneeling, begin rolling the sail segment onto the core.
- Keep it taut and smooth as you roll, using your hands to press out any air bubbles or wrinkles.

4. Attach the Second Sail Segment:
- After the first segment is fully rolled, attach the end edge of the first sail segment to the beginning edge of the second sail segment.
- Continue rolling the second sail segment onto the core, ensuring you maintain the same tautness and smoothness.

5. Repeat for All Sail Segments:
- Follow the same process for the remaining sail segments, attaching the end edge of each rolled segment to the beginning edge of the next.
- Keep the roll tight and smooth to minimize air pockets and slack.

6. Cinching the Final Sail Segment:
- Once all sail segments are rolled onto the core, cinch the end edge of the last sail segment tightly to prevent unrolling or sliding.
- Use a secure tie or a fastener to lock it in place.

7. Add Snugging Straps:
- Place broad elastic snugging straps around the entire roll. Three bands (one at each end and one in the middle) should suffice to keep everything tightly secured.

8. Pack into Tote Bag:
- After securing the sail roll with straps, place it into the tote bag with wheels for easy transportation.

Additional Considerations:
- Elastic Bands: Ensure that the elastic snugging straps are wide enough to prevent any shifting inside the bag.
- Tote Bag: The tote bag should be durable, with enough room to accommodate both the core with sail segments and any additional items (like tools or spare parts).

This process ensures that the sail segments are packed cleanly and securely for transport, preventing damage or wrinkling, and making them easier to unpack and set up when you arrive at the flight site.

Further note about the ground cloth: Clean the ground cloth; fold the ground cloth clean side to itself. Fold the cloth to a shape that stuffs in the tote bag to cushion the rolled sail on its frame-tube core.

If one had a two-tube core, then a flat snugged to the two tubes might stabilized the the arrangement for well rolling the sail segments to such a core. The flight might be an aside toy tumbling wing for flying at some gliding site.

[JoeF]

There will be modification to the "roll sail segments" following deep experience. One area of concern is about sail segments that have a sides of zippers on them; how will the zipper thickness roll up? Maybe a slight left-and-right shuffling may occur in the roll-up process will mitigate the bulkiness that may occur.

Managing Zipper Bulk by Adjusting Sail Segment Widths

The sail segments have a half zipper on one edge and a half zipper on the other edge. To manage the bulk of these zippers when rolling up the sail, we could make the eight sail segments slightly different in width, perhaps by 1/4". This would help spread the zipper bulk across the roll, resulting in a more compact and balanced pack.

Here are some reasons why this approach can help:

1. Staggering the Zipper Bulk: By varying the width of each sail segment, the zippers will not align directly on top of one another. This helps spread the thickness added by the zippers evenly throughout the roll.
   
2. Mitigating Thickness: The slight difference in widths ensures the zipper bulk doesn’t accumulate in one spot, which would otherwise create lumps or pressure points.
   
3. Balancing the Roll: Different widths will create a more even roll, reducing the risk of the sail segments becoming skewed or wrinkled while packing them.
   
4. Smoother Surface: The 1/4" width difference helps the sail lay flatter as each segment is rolled, preventing any sudden buildup of fabric and ensuring a wrinkle-free roll.
   
5. Custom Fit During Attachment: When setting up the sail at the flight site, the slight width differences should not affect the sail’s functionality, as the edges can still be attached correctly to the spars.

This method should make rolling up the sail easier and result in a more manageable pack for transportation.

[JoeF]

There will be modification to the "roll sail segments" following deep experience. One area of concern is about sail segments that have a sides of zippers on them; how will the zipper thickness roll up? Maybe a slight left-and-right shuffling may occur in the roll-up process will mitigate the bulkiness that may occur. Avoid rolling the sail super tightly; such will soften the impact of having a half zipper on the left and right edges of the sail segments. Aim for non-bulky zippers. Or not have sail segments and tolerate some chordwise creases.


Another option:

Managing Zipper Bulk by Adjusting Sail Segment Widths

The sail segments have a half zipper on one edge and a half zipper on the other edge. To manage the bulk of these zippers when rolling up the sail, we could make the eight sail segments slightly different in width, perhaps by 1/4". This would help spread the zipper bulk across the roll, resulting in a more compact and balanced pack.

Here are some reasons why this approach can help:

1. Staggering the Zipper Bulk: By varying the width of each sail segment, the zippers will not align directly on top of one another. This helps spread the thickness added by the zippers evenly throughout the roll.
   
2. Mitigating Thickness: The slight difference in widths ensures the zipper bulk doesn’t accumulate in one spot, which would otherwise create lumps or pressure points.
   
3. Balancing the Roll: Different widths will create a more even roll, reducing the risk of the sail segments becoming skewed or wrinkled while packing them.
   
4. Smoother Surface: The 1/4" width difference helps the sail lie flatter as each segment is rolled, preventing any sudden buildup of fabric and ensuring a wrinkle-free roll.
   
5. Custom Fit During Attachment: When setting up the sail at the flight site, the slight width differences should not affect the sail’s functionality, as the edges can still be attached correctly to the spars.

This method should make rolling up the sail easier and result in a more manageable pack for transportation.

Or

Alternative: Full Sail Socks with Minimal Segmenting

An alternative approach to managing the sail pack could be to avoid having separate sail segments entirely. Instead, we could use two full sail socks (one for each wing) and tolerate around 7 chordwise creases when packing.

Here’s why this could work:

1. Simpler Packing Process: By eliminating the need to manage individual sail segments, rolling and packing becomes quicker and easier. There’s no need to worry about zipper bulk or alignment between segments.
   
2. Tolerating Creases: The sail socks may develop some creases (around 7 chordwise), but these could be manageable and not impact performance significantly, depending on material flexibility and handling during setup.
   
3. Less Complexity at the Flight Site: Without multiple segments, deployment at the flight site is simpler, with fewer pieces to assemble and attach to the spars.
   
4. Durability and Fewer Points of Failure: Full sail socks reduce the number of attachment points and potential zipper wear, leading to increased durability over time.
   
5. Easier Rolling for Transport: With two sail socks instead of multiple segments, you can roll each one more easily around the spar core, despite the minor creases that may appear.

This approach could simplify the packing and assembly of the hang glider while keeping the overall structure and performance intact, despite a few creases in the sails.

[JoeF]

Wings of Tomorrow: The TPHG Revolution

In cities where the towers climb,
And streets hum loud with the beat of time,
A quiet dream begins to soar,
Of skies reclaimed, of something more.

No engines roar, no fuel to burn,
Just wind and wings that twist and turn,
A tiny pack upon your back,
The sky ahead, no beaten track.

The TPHG, a future born,
Of hands that build and minds that mourn
The loss of flight so pure and free,
But now we rise, on wings of three.

Telescopic spars that nest with grace,
Folded tight, they find their place.
A bus ride home, a train to fly,
Urban dreams that touch the sky.

No weight to drag, no bulk to bear,
Just open air, and those who dare
To lift their hearts with every breeze,
To skim the clouds, above the trees.

In cities vast, and towns so small,
The TPHG will heed the call—
A future bright where all can glide,
And feel the freedom none can hide.

So let the winds of change take hold,
A movement new, both brave and bold.
The sky is ours, the earth below,
In quiet flight, the dream will grow.

What is the interpretation of "on wings of three"?

The phrase "on wings of three" in the poem can be interpreted in a few ways, depending on context:

Reference to Three Main Components: It could refer to the three core elements of the TPHG (Tiny Packed Hang Glider) design: spars, socks, and crosslines, which are essential for creating the wing structure. "Wings of three" symbolizes the combination of these elements that make flight possible.

Metaphorical Balance: It might represent balance and stability. A tripod, for example, is stable with three legs, and "wings of three" could metaphorically suggest the balance and harmony needed to achieve flight, hinting at the stability and simplicity of the TPHG's design.

Spiritual or Symbolic Meaning: In some contexts, the number three is associated with unity, completeness, or a triad of elements working together. In this case, "on wings of three" could suggest that the TPHG embodies a perfect union of innovation, simplicity, and freedom in aviation.

The phrase adds a layer of depth and intrigue, inviting interpretation related to the essence of flight and innovation.

[Semper Fidelis]

Wings of Tomorrow: The TPHG Revolution

In cities where the towers climb,
And streets hum loud with the beat of time,
A quiet dream begins to soar,
Of skies reclaimed, of something more.

No engines roar, no fuel to burn,
Just wind and wings that twist and turn,
A tiny pack upon your back,
The sky ahead, no beaten track.

The TPHG, a future born,
Of hands that build and minds that mourn
The loss of flight so pure and free,
But now we rise, on wings of three.

Telescopic spars that nest with grace,
Folded tight, they find their place.
A bus ride home, a train to fly,
Urban dreams that touch the sky.

No weight to drag, no bulk to bear,
Just open air, and those who dare
To lift their hearts with every breeze,
To skim the clouds, above the trees.

In cities vast, and towns so small,
The TPHG will heed the call—
A future bright where all can glide,
And feel the freedom none can hide.

So let the winds of change take hold,
A movement new, both brave and bold.
The sky is ours, the earth below,
In quiet flight, the dream will grow.

I LOVE IT !!

[Semper Fidelis]

NO COMMENT...

20240915_163828.jpg (108.19 KiB) Viewed 606 times

Next, making the sail and steel cables.

Without sail nor cables, 17kg

More to come

[JoeF]

Semper Fidelis,
Congratulations!

Special coincident: your 46th post shows frame of your 4.6 TPHG ...

46thpost4pt6feetFrameUp.JPG (24.19 KiB) Viewed 601 times

--No spreader
--No bowsprit
--Downtube extension is at upper end using coupler.

=============================================
P.S. poem was A.I. created by an A.I. Chabot that had memory of much of my TPHG mulling.

[JoeF]

Wobble, wobble, wobble? Two tubes joining via several methods will present the challenge of wobble. How to mitigate wobbling> Let's in this note confine the note to joins of tubes intended to be parted for tote after each flight session. Further, let's restrict this note to the cases where seamless tubing is used. Further, let's attend only to cases where the tubes are to be part of tote nest where several tubes fit inside each other without being interrupted by tube interiors being stuffed with non-tube items except the most interior tube in a nest. Concentric nesting is assumed in this note. And finally assume that the two tubes definitely have a significant gap between the ID of the larger tube and the OD of the tube to be joined via overlap of some length with respect to each other. Then we have a gap that brings on wobble, if not mitigated by some means. Explore those mitigating means: bushings of various sorts, split bushing. wedges, Joe Cups, Elastic Joe Cups, Variable-wall Joe Cups, O-rings, washers, inflatable bushings. segments of tubular Teflon, segments of tubular fabric, etc. We want to be able to separate the two tubes at flight-session ending as the TPHG is packed for transport.

WobbleTubeJoins001.jpg (14.77 KiB) Viewed 553 times

[JoeF]

This is a development note concerning a part of an advanced Joe Cup. The part is a segment of a cylindrical shell. Let's call it a firm collar to an advanced Joe Cup. The collar will be surrounding the end of a mother tube while the rest of the Joe Cup limits the insertion of the smaller joining tube, the child tube. Assume that the mother and child will be in axial compression during flight. The flexible body of the Joe Cup holds or is bonded to the collar of focus in this post. The collar plays several roles in conjunction with the rest of the Joe Cup. Roles of the collar: 1. protects the hoop of the mother during flight, 2. prevent child insertion past designed limit, 3. provides a bit more butting matter for the butting arriving from a rigging anchor; the anchor will be pulled toward the collar and end of the mother tube. It is so that the collar is to very precisely fit over the end of the mother tube, no gap. This note is going to explore a DIY means of getting a precision collar of high reliability for low cost.

An optional way of making the collar: over a mother tube end, or over a mandrel of the same diameter as the intended mother tube: wrap epoxy wetted Dyneema thread over the mandrel, tie a knot; wrap again, tie another knot, etc for scores or more times to end up with segment of a circular tube. Cure the collar; treat the inner wall of the collar with a dry lubricant, or the like to aid in easy-on-easy-off performance of the collar. Body the body straps to the Joe Cup to the collar's outside by hand sewing while the epoxy is wet; integrate the sewing threads with the threads of the collar; cure the material will the mandrel is still in place. This is one way to be explored. Other ways will present later.

There will be such collars/Joe Cups for each mother tube that uses the Joe Cups.

AI massage of my notes:

Certainly! Here’s your recent prompt and response formatted using `` style for posting on the USHawks.org forum.

---

**Prompt**

An advanced Joe Cup will do all the following:
1. limit insertion of the smaller tube into the larger tube,
2. protect the larger tube's end from hoop expansion,
3. fill the gap between the smaller tube's OD and the larger tube's ID,
4. provide opportunity for adjusting the insertion depth of the smaller tube,
5. be easy to assemble being fully apart from the tubes during TPHG tote,
6. be easy to disassemble after the flight session,
7. be well labeled for its position on the TPGH along with naming the two tubes involved,
8. be low mass,
9. be low tote volume, and
10. be easy to DIY make.

---

**Response:**

Development Note for an Advanced Joe Cup: Fabrication of a Precision Collar

This note outlines a DIY approach for creating a precision collar as part of the advanced Joe Cup system. The collar surrounds the end of the larger tube (mother tube) while the rest of the Joe Cup limits the insertion of the smaller tube (child tube).

Collar Roles:
1. Protects the hoop of the mother tube: The collar reinforces the open end to prevent hoop expansion during axial compression in flight.
2. Prevents over-insertion: The collar acts as a stopper, ensuring the smaller tube does not slide too far into the larger tube.
3. Provides additional structural support: The collar creates a more robust connection at the rigging anchor.

DIY Fabrication Method:
- Wrap Dyneema Thread: Over the end of the mother tube or a similarly-sized mandrel, wrap epoxy-wetted Dyneema thread in layers.
- Build the Collar: Tie knots at intervals to strengthen the wrap and form a durable shell segment around the tube.
- Inner Surface Treatment: Apply dry lubricant to the inside for easy removal.
- Sew the Joe Cup Body to the Collar: While the epoxy is still wet, sew the flexible webbing or straps to the outer surface of the collar to integrate both components.
- Cure the Material: Allow the collar to cure on the mandrel to maintain precision.

Benefits:
- Low cost
- High precision fit
- Easy integration with the Joe Cup body

This method offers a reliable and cost-effective way to manufacture precise collars for the advanced Joe Cup system. Other methods and optimizations will be explored in future developments.